Book Review: Cracker Culture by Grady McWhiney — A Tasty Slice of Southern Roots

You have wondered why the South—especially places like Alabama—feels like a whole different country. It is very different compared to the rest of the U.S. Grady McWhiney’s Cracker Culture serves up some answers with a side of fatback and cornbread.

Now, fair warning: this isn’t a light beach read. It’s a history book, thick with comparisons between Celtic immigrants (think Scots-Irish) and their English counterparts. But don’t let that scare you off. This author has a sharp sense of humor. If you’re from Alabama or know it well, a lot of what he says will sound very familiar.

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One of the tastiest parts of the book (literally) is the deep dive into traditional Southern food. Turns out, the Crackers were early settlers of Celtic descent. They brought over a love for pork and cornmeal. They also had a serious disdain for anything resembling a salad. McWhiney talks about how Alabama tables were full of fried salt pork, grits, hoecakes, and stews cooked over open flames. You will recognize the flavors. This feeling is especially strong if you grew up with a grandmother. She had a cast iron skillet that was older than your dad.

Speaking of cast iron—I’ve got one myself that’s practically a family heirloom at this point. It’s so well-used and seasoned, I swear it weighs twice what it should. You can lift weights with that thing. But the food that comes out of it? Worth every ounce. Cornbread slides right out like it’s been buttered, and don’t even get me started on cooking cracklins. That skillet tells a story each time it hits the stove. McWhiney would argue that story is part of what defines Southern culture. It is especially significant in Alabama.

Alabama is mentioned often in the book. It is usually in contrast to more industrial, “civilized” (his word, not mine) places up North. He describes Alabama and its neighboring Deep South states as proudly rough around the edges. They are less interested in formal education and fancy cities. Instead, they focus more on personal freedom, storytelling, and, of course, a full belly.

Sure, Cracker Culture can be controversial. McWhiney’s generalizations are broad and outdated. He lays out a pretty compelling case for why Alabama is the way it is. This includes its fierce independence and its down-home cooking. Culture isn’t just about politics or geography. It’s what’s on the table and what stories are told at supper. It also shows why sweet tea counts as a food group.

If you’re curious about the roots of Southern life, this book’s worth a read. Or if you’re just looking for an excuse to break out your own cast iron, this book’s for you. And speaking of cornbread sliding out of a skillet, I’ve got a tried-and-true recipe you’ll want to save. Moist on the inside, crispy on the edges, and pure Alabama comfort. You can find it right here at the end of this post.

My Favorite Cornbread Recipe

Print Recipe Pin Recipe

Course: Bread, Side Dish

Cuisine: American

Ingredients Method

Ingredients

  

• 2 cups white corn meal mix
• 2 eggs (unbeaten)
• 1½ cups milk
• 2 tbsp melted shortening or oil

Method

 

1. Preheat oven to 400 °F (204 ℃). If using a cast iron skillet the skillet can also be preheated in the oven.
2. Place corn meal in mixing bowl.
3. Add milk, eggs, and melted shortening or oil.
4. Stir only enough to thoroughly mix ingredients.
5. Carefully remove skillet from the oven and add 1 teaspoon of shortening. Let the shortening melt, then carefully coat the bottom of the skillet by tilting the skillet.
6. Pour immediately into the well-greased and hot 8 inch skillet and bake for 30-35 minutes.